THE SS22 COUTURE MUST-SEES
DENIZ AKKAYA
While Glenn Martens ruled the SS22 haute couture season with his guest collection at JPG, many brands reminded us once again what couture really means.
JEAN PAUL GAULTIER COUTURE REIMAGINED BY GLENN MARTENS
Shortly after showcasing his Fall/Winter 2022 collection for Y/Project, Glenn Martens has unveiled his takeover for Jean Paul Gaultier‘s Spring/Summer 2022 Couture collection. The announcement, initially made in September last year, follows the house’s Fall/Winter 2021 Couture show by sacai‘s Chitose Abe.
VALENTINO SS22 “ANATOMY OF COUTURE”
Driven by the urgency of rethinking the rituals and processes of Couture in order to create a canon that reflects the richness and diversity of the contemporary world and promoting an idea of beauty that is not absolute, Creative Director Pierpaolo Piccioli imagined this Valentino Anatomy of Couture collection not on one single and idealized house model, but on a variety of women with different body frames and ages. Soft and welcoming in the democratic spirit, and at the same time radical in the approach that rewrites known processes, Pierpaolo Piccioli builds the collection as a composite harmony of physical types and the clothes that dress them, studied through a long process, both scientific and poetic.
SCHIAPARELLI SS22 HAUTE COUTURE
Schiaparelli showed its spring ’22 couture collection at Paris Fashion Week, holding its first runway show since the pandemic began and Daniel Rosberry welcomed all of us to planet Schiaparelli.
DIOR SS22 HAUTE COUTURE
Dior wants you to rethink the possibilities of embroidery. For the fashion house’s Spring/Summer 2022 couture collection, Maria Grazia Chiuri, creative director of Dior’s women’s collections, paid tribute to the atelier.
FENDI SS22 HAUTE COUTURE
“The eternity of Rome, the spirituality of Rome, the celestial Rome” – Kim Jones
Traversing the strata of Roman temporality, from its ancient past to its imagined future, for Spring 2022 Kim Jones presents a Fendi Couture collection that draws upon fantasy and reality to land in an otherworldly present.
CHANEL SS22 HAUTE COUTURE
Chanel said they have the horses in the back! To open the Chanel Spring 2022 couture show, Virginie Viard enlisted Charlotte Casiraghi, professional princess-to-be and equestrienne, to gallop down the runway on a stallion horse: that’s one way to make an entrance. In the show notes, Viard said she wanted to give the Chanel girl an unexpectedly sporty guise with this elaborate offering: “I like the classic Chanel, and I like sport and it’s funny to think that the Chanel tailleur is something you can wear for playing golf, or riding a horse,” she said.
