ANOTHER LEGEND FLIES AWAY: ISSEY MIYAKE

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ANOTHER LEGEND FLIES AWAY: ISSEY MIYAKE

Renowned avant-garde fashion designer and innovator Issey Miyake has died in hospital in Tokyo aged 84…

After surviving the atomic bombing of Hiroshima as a child, Miyake turned to clothes as a modern, optimistic form of creativity, and revived the use of pleats to create wearable, free-flowing, unisex clothes.

Miyake rose to prominence in the 1970s, with his work over the years defined by technology-driven designs, avant garde cuts, bold, colourful styles and origami-like pleats – the latter of which earned him the title ‘Prince of Pleats’ and signature fragnances.

Miyake was born in Hiroshima Prefecture in 1938 and studied graphic design at the Tama Art University in Tokyo. His education occurred around the same time that fellow Japanese designer Kenzo Takada broke into the Parisian fashion scene, being the first Japanese brand to do so. Like Takada, Miyake moved to Paris, spirited by his predecessor’s success and a fascination with the fashion magazines his sister used to read. In 1965, he enrolled at the tailoring and dressmaking school École de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne. This formative education led Miyake to work for Guy Laroche, Hubert de Givenchy, and Geoffrey Beene, before founding the eponymous Miyake Design Studio in 1970, which has served as the foundation for his creations for the past 52 years. 

In 1983, Miyake displayed an array of his textile innovations—including unorthodox materials such as rattan and reinforced plastic—in his seminal exhibit “Issey Miyake: Body Works” in Tokyo. It was one of the first exhibits in Asia that showed fashion as an art form, and his clothing continued to challenge the constraints of fashion by penetrating the world of science and design. For instance, in 1998, he founded A Piece of Cloth (A-POC), a line of garments machine-knitted from a single thread. The fabric had various lines of demarcation; upon snipping, it could produce a dress, a hat—any garment conceivable—as well as a cover for Ron Arad’s looping figure-eight Ripple Chair. Known as “A-POC Trampoline,” the collaboration was exhibited at Milan’s annual Salone del Mobile design conference in 2006.

The designer was opposed to the overconsumption fostered by the fashion cycle. To address this, he created the A Piece of Clothing (A-POC) line, which revolved around a single, tube-like piece of fabric that could be cut by the wearer to create a custom outfit. For his Spring/Summer 1999 collection, he showed models attached to each other through a single piece of red fabric. This eventually became a signature of the house and was showcased in multiple collections and runway shows. 

Issey Miyake was always ahead of his time, with ideas that weren’t just pleasing to look at but were equally thought-provoking and meaningful. His loss is a wound that the fashion industry has felt deeply. 

DCO X RUSLAN BAGINSKY: ON HOW THE FASHION WORLD CAN HELP UKRAINE

DCO X RUSLAN BAGINSKY: ON HOW THE FASHION WORLD CAN HELP UKRAINE

Interview: Deniz Akkaya

February 24th, Putin launched a devastating attack on Ukraine, a democracy of 44 million people. Now, Europe is witnessing its first major war in decades, while Ukrainians alone are fighting for the democratic world as we know it by themselves. The creatives of Ukraine have been finding ways to continue creating work despite the war ravaging their country. We had a special conversation with Ruslan Baginsky on how the fashion world can help Ukraine and how we can all spread awareness more…

Dear Ruslan, how are you?

As for all Ukrainian people, I think this is one of the hardest questions now. We all feel pain, we all devastated, we all are lost, but we all answer “I’m ok”.

Are you finding it difficult to work at the moment or does creating offer an escape from it all?

To be honest I find it difficult not to create. For me and for my team it was not only work, it’s our life, we were all creating our dream. And we won’t let Russians destroy it and still it from us. When the war started, we had to flee from Kyiv to Lviv. We had to leave our homes, our office and production. But we managed to rebuild our production here in the Western Ukraine so we have chance to continue our work and support people and our country. From the first day of war, I wanted to create a special piece with a statement. I wanted to unite people and spread the message to the whole world that Ukrainians are brave, strong and powerful nation. And as soon as we restarted our production and I got the chance to fulfill my idea I started to create the capsule drop of two baseball caps in colors of Ukrainian flag. All profits from this collection will be donated to support our defenders.

How do you feel about the solidarity in the fashion industry?

I hear a strong voice of the fashion community and they all stand for Ukraine and stand for humanity. We can feel a lot of support, and a lot of companies showed it by organizing charity events to raise funds for Ukraine, a lot of magazines tell stories of Ukrainian designers, Vogue US made a huge interview with our first lady Olena Zelenska, make statements on their covers, top models Gigi and Bella Hadid donated their earnings from fashion week to help Ukraine, Balenciaga’s show was a real example of solidarity with Ukraine, brands banned Russian market etc. We appreciate all this support and we ask you not to spot because the war is not over.

How do you understand your responsibility as a Ukrainian brand in this information war?

From the first day of the war, our main communication platform, Instagram, was transformed. We’ve been building communities for 6.5 years; we are followed by people from dozens of countries around the world, including designers, influencers, artists, models, artists, entrepreneurs and stylists with millions of followers. We felt it’s our duty to share information, show the truth, and call the world to action. Commercial content was paused, the priority was the information war in its various manifestations.

Do you think you’ll ever get back to where you were before the war?

I believe in Ukraine, I believe in Ukrainian people. We are strong nation and I know we will rebuild our beautiful country and make it even better place. We will not stop and I will do everything from my side to be part of Ukrainian progress.

What fashion world specifically can do to spread more awareness? What would you like to see more?

Now every voice matter, if you are an editor, write about the war, support Ukrainian brands, tell the truth. If you are an influencer, be an example for your followers. Send a donation, become a volunteer, show that you care.

What is the best way to help those affected?

There are thousands of affected people. And the number is growing every day. The best way to help is to show your care and support, so people would feel that they are not alone. Help refugees, donate money to organizations you trust, host people who have no place to live, purchase Ukrainian products, show your position and solidarity in your city.

Can you share some helpful resources with us (information channels, donation links etc.)

There are numerous nonprofit organizations, and we can recommend the two we are already working with. On February 24, we transferred 1.5 million hryvnias to the Come Back Alive Foundation, and in April we launched a special drop of baseball caps in the colors of the Ukrainian flag – all proceeds from their sale will be donated to the Serhiy Prytula Foundation.

Compassion is not just a word. It’s a value on which our entire planetary existence must be refocused.

Slava Ukraina!

MARINA ABRAMOVIĆ FOR UKRAINE

MARINA ABRAMOVIĆ FOR UKRAINE

DENIZ AKKAYA

This month Marina Abramović will restage one of her most famous performances, The Artist is Present, for an auction benefiting Ukraine.

In conjunction with Sean Kelly Gallery and photographer Marco Anelli, the acclaimed Serbian conceptual artist is holding a benefit auction with 100% of proceeds benefitting Direct Relief’s Ukraine response efforts.

Currently on auction through an Artsy platform is a chance be photographed opposite Abramović at New York’s Sean Kelly gallery, where a survey of her work is currently on view. The photograph will be taken by Marco Anelli, who captured the more than 1,500 people who came to the Museum of Modern Art 12 years ago for a chance to sit across from the artist.

Each of the two winning bidders will be photographed with the artist by renowned photographer Marco Anelli, who documented every sitting at that iconic MoMA performance. Each sitter will also receive a framed copy of the photograph signed by both Abramović and Anelli, along with a signed copy of Anelli’s 2021 publication, Portraits in the Presence of Marina Abramović.

Marina Abramović: The Artist Is Present Photo by Marco Anelli. © 2010 Marco Anelli

To enter, please register with Artsy. The auction will run until March 25.

THIS MONTH’S HOTTEST DROPS

THIS MONTH’S HOTTEST DROPS

This week, tap into big releases from popstar Charlie XCX, who returns with her highly-anticipated album Crash, Spanish singer Rosalìa’s new album MOTOMAMI, Normani’s new single Fair, and Coi Leray and Nicki Minaj’s buzzworthy “Blick Blick!”

CHARLI XCX GIVES A “CRASH” COURSE ON ALT-POP

This is not a drill: Charli XCX’s new album Crash is out and we may or may not be freaking out!

Charli XCX says now is her time to shine, telling Apple Music 1’s Zane Lowe “the music industry is beginning to catch up with me a little bit.”  The hitmaker adds, “We’re at this time now where being an artist like me is actually quite common” and that her brand of music is now a “tangible genre” not just made for “weird kids who have great taste.”

Charli XCX’s latest album, Crash, is a 34-minute primer of pop music! Through 12 tracks, the English singer-songwriter bobs and weaves through almost four decades of chart-topping sounds, from the Wham!-esque gated reverb of the ’80s to the disco revival of the 2020s…

HOT MAMI: ROSALIA MOTOMAMI

The Spanish superstar’s third album is a showcase for Rosalía’s exceptional range!

The Spanish pop singer, known for her reinvention of flamenco, has smashed together new sounds from the Latin world and beyond on her latest album, “Motomami”. MOTOMAMI features singles “La Fama,” “Saoko” and “Chicken Teriyaki,” which find the rising Latin star dabbling in dembow, bachata, rap and pop. The 16-track collection was released March 18 through Columbia Records.

NORMANI, FAIR

The second single from her upcoming debut studio album, “Fair” is Normani’s follow-up to her electrifying summer 2021 single “Wild Side.”

“Sharing this record makes me uncomfortable because you have never really seen me in this light,” she wrote. “Definitely aware that you might feel like you don’t know much about me but that’s only because it’s what makes me feel protected. I am really forcing myself to let go here. This is huge for me and hopefully, this piece of art resonates. Love is beautiful yet so soooo terrifying 🖤 I adore you guys to the moon and back.” Normani shared on Instagram.

NICKI MINAJ, BLINK BLINK

Coi Leray and Nicki Minaj join forces to create the fiery “Blick Blick!” Featuring effortless flow, fierce lyrics and killer punchlines, the track delivers all the unapologetic vibes for a Friday night of fun. 

SYD AND LUCKY DAYE, “CYBAH”

One of R&B’s favorite crooners has returned, with a brand new single and a big announcement: Syd’s second studio album Broken Hearts Club will be released on April 8. 

EVERYTHING WE KNOW ABOUT THE 2022 MET GALA

EVERYTHING WE KNOW ABOUT THE 2022 MET GALA

DENIZ AKKAYA

Met Gala is back with the second installment to its two-part exhibition on American fashion. Last year’s In America: A Lexicon of Fashion is followed by 2022’s An Anthology of Fashion.

Another year, another Met Gala to watch, unpack every outfit in detail, and enjoy the many memes to come from it. Details about 2022’s upcoming event are now dropping, and we cannot wait to see our favorite celebs walk up to the infamous stairs of MET.

2022 marks the year that the Met Gala will return to its usual slot in the first week of May, on Monday, 2 May — a mere eight months since the last. However, there will still be a few key differences.

Last yearAndrew Bolton, curator at the Costume Institute, announced that the theme for the 2021 and 2022 Met Gala’s will take place in two instalments. Both would centre on Americana, a decision he came to in the hopes of championing the US fashion industry which was ravaged economically by Covid-19.

What is the theme?

The 2022 Met Gala is pegged to the Met’s exhibition, In America: An Anthology of Fashion, the second installment of the institution’s two-part homage to the history of American fashion. The first exhibition, titled In America: A Lexicon of Fashion, opened in September 2021 with examples from designers including Ralph Lauren, Donna Karan, and Calvin Klein. While there has yet to be an official announcement as to what precisely that theme will mean for the gala’s dress code, Vanessa Friedman of the New York Times has reported that the theme will be “Gilded Glamour,” suggesting a very luxe evening indeed.

Blake Lively, Ryan Reynolds, Regina King and Lin-Manuel Miranda will host as official co-chairs. Continuing their roles as honorary co-chairs are Tom Ford, head of Instagram Adam Mosseri, and Vogue’s Anna Wintour. The Met Gala will be held on May 2 with the exhibit opening to the public on May 7. Both parts one and two will be on display at the museum until September 5. For more details, watch the video below.

FASHION’S NEW IT GIRL: CHLOE CHERRY

Chloe Cherry

FASHION’S NEW IT GIRL: CHLOE CHERRY

DENIZ AKKAYA

The actor’s foray into high fashion is just getting started...

Season 2 of Euphoria sadly came to an end with lots of plot holes, leaving fans to theorize fort he next 2 years… However, Faye cemented her reputation as the season’s most beloved character — and Chloe Cherry, its breakout star.

Chloe Cherry got her start in the adult film industry back in 2015 and has a long list of IMDB credits to her name. Her Euphoria role is a breakout moment for Cherry in the TV world, and the show’s fans are loving her character’s contributions to the show. As for how Chloe was discovered, As for how Chloe was discovered, she filmed a Euphoria porn parody with her friend Jenna Foxx, and was scouted for the show by creator Sam Levinson on Instagram…

Chloe Cherry Euphoria Faye with Fez

Also, turns out, a handful of Faye’s most iconic lines were actually improvised by the actress herself. Speaking on The Polyester Podcast’s The Sleepover Club, Chloe revealed that showrunner Sam Levinson let her improv most of Faye’s scenes and a couple of on-the-spot moments actually ended up in the show!

Chloe Cherry Euphoria Faye
Chloe Cherry Euphoria Faye

In the wake of Fashion Month Fall/Winter 2022, it turns out that Cherry has won over much more than Euphoria stans’ hearts; she’s won over those of the fashion industry, as well. Making an entrance at some of the coolest shows on the schedule at London Fashion Week, she is undoubtedly cementing her position as a certified Gen Z style icon thanks to her ability to adapt new trends to suit her early 00s, TikTok-adored aesthetic.

Here’s Chloe’s iconic looks this fashion month!

Chloe Cherry walking LaQuan Smith FW22
Chloe Cherry walking LaQuan Smith FW22
Chloe Cherry walking Blumarine FW22
Chloe Cherry walking Blumarine FW22
 Chloe Cherry walking GCDS FW22
Chloe Cherry walking GCDS FW22
Chloe Cherry in David Koma at LFW
Chloe Cherry in David Koma at LFW
Chloe Cherry in Chet Lo at LFW
Chloe Cherry in Chet Lo at LFW
Chloe Cherry in a red babydoll dress at LFW
Chloe Cherry in a red babydoll dress at LFW
Chloe Cherry in Alessandra Rich at LFW
Chloe Cherry in Alessandra Rich at LFW
Chloe Cherry in Supriya LeLe at LFW
Chloe Cherry in Supriya LeLe at LFW

FASHION MONTH REPORT: BEAUTY TRENDS

fashion week runway beauty trends

FASHION MONTH REPORT: BEAUTY TRENDS

DENIZ AKKAYA

After traveling all over the world from New York to London, Milan & Paris, the fashion month has finally came to an end until the next season.

Let’s have a look at this year’s runway beauty trends!

Slicked Hair/Wet Look
Fendi
Jil Sander
Fendi
Glass-like Complexions
Giambatista Valli
MaxMara
Nensi Dojaka
Julia Fox eyes & Bleached Brows
Versace
Dion Lee
Saint Laurent
Versace
Graphic eyeliner
Roksanda
Marine Serre
Copper and bleached hair
16Arlington
Prada
Diesel
Power of a Red Lip
Sportmax
Sportmax
Silver & Gold eyehsadows
Gucci
Gucci x Adidas
Off-White

SPORTSWEAR MEETS HIGH FASHION: GUCCI x ADIDAS

Gucci x Adidas

SPORTSWEAR MEETS HIGH FASHION: GUCCI x ADIDAS

DENIZ AKKAYA

The worlds of sportswear and luxury combine in this latest high-low collaboration, unveiled during Milan Fashion Week…

After months of speculations, the Italian Maison confirmed that it’s releasing another collaboration, but with a sportswear mammoth instead of another luxury house. During Milan Fashion Week, models strut down the runway in the brand’s FW22 collection – titled Exquisite Gucci – featuring the house’s signature pieces fused with the DNA of Adidas.

“I use the metaphor of the magical mirror to approach the phantasmagorical power of fashion,” said Alessandro Michele in a press statement. “A sacred power that radiates from the surface of the fabrics. And there I work, on this tactile surface, through cross-references, alterations, loopholes and grafts. Juxtaposing worlds and meanings. Altering the stability of perception. Manipulating and magnifying the existing. Through these interventions, I celebrate the clothes as real optical labs: magical machines that can give birth to fairy tales of metamorphosis and re-enchantment.”

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