MEN’S FASHION WEEK RECAP
Menswear presentations came to an end as the haute couture week kicked off… Let’s take a look at some of them!
LOUIS VUITTON MEN’S COLLECTION BY VIRGIL ABLOH FALL-WINTER 2022
‘AN OCTOLOGY ACCORDING TO VIRGIL ABLOH.’ COLLECTION 8: IN THE GRAND SCHEME OF THINGS.
PARIS, JANUARY 2022.
Imagination: the human faculty of forming new ideas not already present to the senses.
Definition and redefinition are key to understanding the work of Virgil Abloh at Louis Vuitton. Supported by his seasonal Vocabulary – “a liberal definition of terms and explanation of ideas” – his eight-collection arc is founded in the desire to change our ways of seeing. Using fashion as a tool, his premise lies in decoding the biases associated with the components of human appearance. He wants to recode the way we treat each other according to how we look and present ourselves. One of Virgil Abloh’s most used terms, imagination is what fuels this dream. It’s what drove him to Louis Vuitton and what defines his legacy at the Maison. Executed in eight parts between 2018 and 2022, the work of the Men’s Artistic Director is never content with simply imagining new clothes and accessories. He seeks to evolve the human values with which the brand imbues their dress codes, and test how they – as social, political and cultural signifiers – can be used to implement change beyond fashion. Driven by that imagination, the 𝓛𝓸𝓾𝓲𝓼 Dreamhouse™ conceived by Virgil Abloh for Fall-Winter 2022 (Collection 8) serves to condate the themes and messages of the arc he created at Louis Vuitton. It’s an octology that plays out in the tradition of the Hero’s Journey: the age-old story of the underdog, who is tried and tested, and becomes a sensation in the eyes of his spectators.
DIOR MEN’S COLLECTION BY KIM JONES FALL-WINTER 2022
For Dior Homme FW 2022-2023 collection, this time Kim Jones is having a dialogue with Monsieur Dior. While the looks celebrate this unique heritage with modernity; reflections of the movement of time refer to the past and future of the maison. The delphinium, leopard and lily-of-the-valley motifs, which Christian Dior loved so much and became the symbols of the Maison, come to life with virtuoso techniques inspired by the Dior archives. In the name of performing the “art of living”, which has always been essential for Dior, every product designed to be a part of modern daily life combines practicality with the formal and informal.
Christian Dior’s passion for new inventions and the creative courage of Kim Jones join forces with this collection: gently diversified nuances of gray and pastels of all colors, where Paris reflects the sky, form the backdrop for the masculine interpretation of the iconic bar jacket.
KENZO FALL/WINTER 2022 WOMEN’S AND MEN’S COLLECTION BY NIGO
The KENZO Fall-Winter 2022 Women’s and Men’s Show marks the debut of Artistic Director Nigo, the first Japanese designer to front the house since its founder Kenzo Takada. With his first collection, Nigo introduces his vision for KENZO: a meeting between the Maison’s heritage and his own contemporary codes. In 1970, the year Nigo was born, Takada presented his inaugural fashion show in the Galerie Vivienne on the backdrop of his new shop, Jungle Jap. Five decades later, Nigo makes his own debut for KENZO in the same arcade, envisioning it as a tunnel toward the future and beyond the borders of fashion. The show soundtrack features an exclusive preview of the designer’s upcoming album I Know Nigo with contributions from A$AP Rocky, Kid Cudi, Pharrell Williams, Pusha T, Teriyaki Boyz, Tyler, The Creator and Lil Uzi Vert.
Nigo and Kenzo Takada share an inherent cultural language – an understanding of the synthesis between Japanese and Western wardrobe traditions – but it’s their attitude to fashion that connects them above all: a belief that what you see on a runway should manifest in real life. In keeping with this philosophy, Nigo is building one continuous brand story at KENZO: a considered wardrobe gradually drip-fed through monthly limited-edition drops rooted in Kenzo’s heritage and his own practice. While Takada was building his Maison in Paris, Nigo was playing out his teenage years in Japan amid the subcultural 1980s’ revival of 1950s’ Americana. Amplified by the country’s post- WWII links with American culture, the style would go on to underpin the designer’s aesthetic and draw a natural line between the Japanese-Western territories occupied by his work prior to KENZO. In his first collection for the Maison, Nigo fuses the influences of his own upbringing and career with the heritage of Kenzo Takada, writing a language for the Maison that looks to the future by learning from the past. Melding the grammar of the archives with that of his own sensibility, the Artistic Director creates a premise that unites and transcends cultural and conventional dress codes. Traditional ideas of formal-, sports- and “streetwear” splice into one logic: real-to-wear, exercised across women’s and men’s wardrobes, which mix tailoring and workwear, both cutting a genderless silhouette.